Anyone who has travelled a lot will start to have their own catalogue of places they liked, places they loved and places that just didn’t live up to expectations. Whilst I can talk for hours about how much I loved Prague, Budapest, Reykjavik or the Swiss Alps, and I like to hear tales of people’s favourite cities and countries, sometimes I’m more interested in the places people didn’t like. From some travellers I’ve heard that Paris really didn’t live up to the hype, or that they were let down by Swiss cities like Basel or Geneva, or that they hated Milan. In my case, It’s taken me a while to find a city or destination that didn’t meet my expectations – but finally I did.
Now a disclaimer. I did come to Vienna at the end of a long trip, having already been blown away by Prague, Budapest, Bratislava and Lviv and walked around even more cities and towns in a short period. So maybe I was suffering from city fatigue – they all start to seem the same after a while; fountains, statues, bridges, river, shops, restaurants, token cathedral or impressive town hall… I was also suffering from the remains of a stomach bug I picked up on my last night in Budapest. And it was around 40 degrees centigrade, so all in all it was probably the worst possible time to visit. So perhaps I really didn’t see the right side of this city. But I have to say that of all the places I’ve visited, this one has disappointed me the most.
I’ve actually always wanted to visit Vienna, and had imagined it as this incredibly grand and beautiful city.
Instead it was a bit more like this:
Yes, the majestic Donau….
Hahaa. Ok, slight exaggeration, there was some nice stuff as well…
But overall, I found Vienna somewhat… odd. My expectations were actually quite high. As a German speaker who has spent quite a while living in Austria (the other side, Bregenz, by the Bodensee), I really love the country and was dying to see the ‘other side’ – posh, beautiful, majestic Wien. I imagined long strolls along the Donau; stunning, palatial buildings; splendid cascading fountains; ancient, beautifully sculpted statues; stylish cafes with people sipping on capuccinos whilst nibbling overpriced but delicious Sachertorte…
In reality it was sort of… smelly. And empty. And devoid of anything really interesting to do or see. The city centre is actually tiny by comparison with most other capitals. We parked nearby and started walking in, all the time wondering if we were actually in the wrong place. We didn’t see anything that looked like an interesting monument, a church, a cathedral, a palace, a garden… We just saw some dingy, closed up shops, some alleyways and dirty ‘green’ spaces. So we thought maybe we were still a long way from the touristic area and stopped for an overpriced lunch in an average, vaguely Austrian-style restaurant where I had a ludicrously large plate of carb-y spinach dumplings and an expensive (but great!) beer. Fine. So we continued our walk into the city, only to find that actually, we were already in the city.
When we finally got to the central square where there is a beautiful church with a coloured roof, a nice square and some refreshing fountains we thought ‘finally! we’ve made it!’ Now, this church really is beautiful, and I have to admit, Vienna has some wonderful buildings. But the issue is, they seem to be oddly packed together. So you see some sort of splendid church or town hall or something, but there’s no space to stand back and admire it or take a photo – it’s all crammed in among shops and things. Also, there are far fewer amazing sights than you expect. I kept looking at the map and wondering ‘where are the tourist attractions???’ – there are very few, in fact. There is of course the Schoenbrunn Palace (which is amazing, of course), St. Stephen’s cathedral (the one on the left) and a nice-looking Rathaus (town hall), but not much else. Unless you’re really into the zoo or some parks, there isn’t so incredibly much to see and do.
Now, we were absolutely sweltering in 40+ degree heat, so maybe that took something away from our day or two that we spent there. And maybe that was the reason for 2 other things I really didn’t like about the city. One was the smell. That awful uriney smell that you often get in back streets, but in Vienna it was almost everywhere. Perhaps because of the heat – I can imagine Vienna is really a different, magical place in the snow, for example. The other was that it was really, spookily and bizarrely empty. Again, perhaps because of the time of year (Vienna isn’t popular in late August-early September??) or the heat? But I’ve never walked around a capital city and seen so incredibly few people. It was almost ghostly, considering how many people you expect to be visiting a touristic city. I kept feeling like I was missing something or in the wrong place. But really, yes, that was the center and that is Vienna.
I would love to have seen the nightlife as I hear it is quite alternative and Berlin-esque. But we were staying in a campsite faaaar outside the city (Vienna Sud – it’s really a lovely campsite and highly recommended if you have a car or don’t mind taking the bus) and we were still suffering from what I shall call ‘Budapest belly’. So I can’t comment on that, maybe it’s fab. But we had the same problem again when trying to find somewhere to eat. Everything is very expensive, a bit posh and not very interesting. I love schnitzel as much as the next person, so definitely eat that and try my favourite Austrian dish, Spaetzle. And of course have some of their incredible cake. The ‘original’ Sachertorte costs about 5 euro, plus 3-4 euro just for a coffee, but I think it might be worth it even so. But great cake is everywhere, for sure.
So in the end, my impression of Vienna was: overly expensive – you’re 1/2 an hour from Bratislava which is an amazing and cheap city – go there instead! It was also oddly smelly, incredibly hot and very empty. Most of the center is comprised of expensive designer shops and chic but uninviting cafes. Yes there are some wonderful sights, but not nearly as many as I hoped for, and there’s not much to do other than look at them and get out again.
Have you been to Vienna? What did you think? Did I completely miss the point, or was I suffering from city-fatigue or I went there at the wrong time?
What’s YOUR most disappointing destination? I’d love to know!